Things changed in the aftermath of World War II. The postwar Italian government actively sought ways to help the nation recover from the war's fearsome damage and build a new economy. One early success was the revival of traditional craft-based products -- shoes, leather goods, and other accessories -- for an export market aimed at the United States, the only big country in the world with substantial post-war purchasing power. The American fashion press took notice, and observed, too, that Italian dresses (still taking their design cues from Paris) were coming onto the market at prices far lower than those for French creations.
But a distinctive Italian Look had yet to emerge. A crucial step in putting Italy on the world fashion map was the first multi-designer Italian fashion show, held in Florence in 1951. That turned the spotlight on such pioneer designers as the Fontana Sisters, Contessa Visconti, Emilio Pucci, Baroness Gallotti, and Bertoli, and the fashion press responded with enthusiasm, using phrases like "seductive elegance" and "aristocratic ease." Throughout the 1950s,,competing fashion shows in Florence and Rome solidified Italy's reputation for Capri pants, "palazzo pyjamas," and other youthful, elegant sportswear.
But the Italian Look meant glamour, too. In the 1950s, sophisticated evening gowns from the Fontana Sisters and Emilio Shuberth, and cocktail dresses from Contessa Visconti, began to be conspicuously worn by Italian and Hollywood movie stars. Roberto Capucci, as much an artist as a fashion designer, astounded the world of haute couture with his sculptural dresses. The 1960s brought a new star to the fore as Valentino began his long and influential career.