deep-fried in oil, with a crisp gold exterior and a moist interior that’s fluffy if the potatoes are high-starch russets, creamy otherwise. Simple quick frying doesn’t work very well; it gives a thin, delicate crust that’s quickly softened by the interior’s moisture. A crisp crust requires an initial period of gentle frying, so that starch in the surface cells has time to dissolve from the granules and reinforce and glue together the outer cell walls into a thicker, more robust layer.
Good fries can be made by starting the potato strips in relatively cool oil, 250–325ºF/120–163ºC, cooking for 8–10 minutes, then raising the oil temperature to 350–375ºF/175–190ºC and cooking for 3–4 minutes to brown and crisp the outside. The most efficient production method is to pre-fry all the potato strips at the lower temperature ahead of time, set them aside at room temperature, and then do the brief high-temperature frying at the last minute.
Potato Chips Potato chips are essentially french fries that are all crust and no interior. The potatoes are cut into thin cross sections around 1.5 mm thick, the equivalent of just 10–12 potato cells, then deep-fried until dry and crisp. There are two basic ways of frying chips, and they produce two different textures. Cooking at a fairly constant and high oil temperature, around 350ºF/175ºC, heats the slices so rapidly that the starch granules and cell walls have little chance to absorb any moisture before they’re desiccated and done, in 3–4 minutes. The texture is therefore delicately crisp and fine-grained. Most packaged chips have this texture because they’re made in a continuous processor whose oil temperature stays high. On the other hand, cooking at an initially low and slowly increasing temperature, beginning around 250ºF/120ºC and reaching 350ºF/175ºC in 8–10 minutes, gives the starch granules time to absorb water, exude dissolved starch into the potato cell walls, and reinforce and glue them together. The result is a much harder, crunchier chip. This is the texture created by “kettle frying,” or cooking the slices by the batch in a vessel like an ordinary pot. The temperature of the preheated kettle drops immediately when a batch of cold potatoes is dumped in, so the potatoes cook in oil whose temperature starts low and rises slowly as the potatoes’ moisture is cooked out and the heater catches up.
Soufflée Potatoes Soufflée potatoes are a kind of hybrid French fry-chip in which the potato slices puff up into delicate brown balloons. They are made by cutting potato slices around 3 mm (1⁄8 in) thick, and deep-frying them at a moderate temperature, 350ºF/175ºC, until their surfaces become leathery and just begin to brown. The slices are cooled, then fried a second time at a high temperature, around 380ºF/195ºC. Now when the interior moisture is heated to the boil and vaporized, the stiffened surfaces resist the pressure, and the vapor pushes the two surfaces apart, leaving a hollow center.
SWEET POTATOES
The sweet potato is the true storage root of Ipomoea batatas, a member of the morning glory family. It is native to northern South America, and may have reached Polynesia in prehistoric times. Columbus brought the sweet potato to Europe, and by the end of the 15th century it was established in China and the Philippines. China now produces and consumes far more sweet potatoes than the Americas, enough to make it the second most important vegetable worldwide. There are many different varieties, ranging from dry and starchy varieties common in tropical regions, some pale and others red or purple with anthocyanins, to the moist, sweet version, dark orange with beta-carotene, that is popular in the United States and was confusingly named a “yam” in 1930s marketing campaigns (for true yams, see p. 306). The bulk of the U.S. crop is grown in the Southeast and cured for several days at 86ºF/30ºC to heal damaged skin and encourage sugar develop
ทอดในน้ำมัน นอกทองคำคมและการตกแต่งภายในที่ชุ่มชื่นที่นุ่มมันฝรั่งมีแป้งสูง russets ครีม ทอดรวดเร็วอย่างไม่ได้ดีมาก มันทำให้เปลือกบาง ละเอียดอ่อนที่ก่อเป็นอย่างรวดเร็ว ด้วยความชื้นของห้อง เปลือกกรอบต้องเป็นระยะเริ่มต้นทอดอ่อนโยน เพื่อให้แป้งในเซลล์ผิวมีเวลาละลายจากเม็ด และเสริมกาวผนังเซลล์ด้านนอกกันเป็นชั้นหนา แข็งแกร่งมากขึ้นดีฟรายส์ได้ โดยเริ่มต้นแผ่นมันฝรั่งในน้ำมันค่อนข้างเย็น 250 – 325ºF/120 – 163ºC อาหารสำหรับ 8-10 นาที จาก นั้นเพิ่มอุณหภูมิน้ำมัน 350 – 375ºF/175 – 190ºC และอาหารสำหรับ 3-4 นาทีให้น้ำตาลและกรอบด้านนอก วิธีการผลิตที่มีประสิทธิภาพสูงสุดคือ ก่อนเจียวมันฝรั่งทั้งหมดแถบอุณหภูมิต่ำก่อนเวลา ตั้งไว้ที่อุณหภูมิห้อง และจากนั้น ทำการย่ออุณหภูมิสูงทอดนาทีสุดท้ายPotato Chips Potato chips are essentially french fries that are all crust and no interior. The potatoes are cut into thin cross sections around 1.5 mm thick, the equivalent of just 10–12 potato cells, then deep-fried until dry and crisp. There are two basic ways of frying chips, and they produce two different textures. Cooking at a fairly constant and high oil temperature, around 350ºF/175ºC, heats the slices so rapidly that the starch granules and cell walls have little chance to absorb any moisture before they’re desiccated and done, in 3–4 minutes. The texture is therefore delicately crisp and fine-grained. Most packaged chips have this texture because they’re made in a continuous processor whose oil temperature stays high. On the other hand, cooking at an initially low and slowly increasing temperature, beginning around 250ºF/120ºC and reaching 350ºF/175ºC in 8–10 minutes, gives the starch granules time to absorb water, exude dissolved starch into the potato cell walls, and reinforce and glue them together. The result is a much harder, crunchier chip. This is the texture created by “kettle frying,” or cooking the slices by the batch in a vessel like an ordinary pot. The temperature of the preheated kettle drops immediately when a batch of cold potatoes is dumped in, so the potatoes cook in oil whose temperature starts low and rises slowly as the potatoes’ moisture is cooked out and the heater catches up.Soufflée Potatoes Soufflée potatoes are a kind of hybrid French fry-chip in which the potato slices puff up into delicate brown balloons. They are made by cutting potato slices around 3 mm (1⁄8 in) thick, and deep-frying them at a moderate temperature, 350ºF/175ºC, until their surfaces become leathery and just begin to brown. The slices are cooled, then fried a second time at a high temperature, around 380ºF/195ºC. Now when the interior moisture is heated to the boil and vaporized, the stiffened surfaces resist the pressure, and the vapor pushes the two surfaces apart, leaving a hollow center.SWEET POTATOESThe sweet potato is the true storage root of Ipomoea batatas, a member of the morning glory family. It is native to northern South America, and may have reached Polynesia in prehistoric times. Columbus brought the sweet potato to Europe, and by the end of the 15th century it was established in China and the Philippines. China now produces and consumes far more sweet potatoes than the Americas, enough to make it the second most important vegetable worldwide. There are many different varieties, ranging from dry and starchy varieties common in tropical regions, some pale and others red or purple with anthocyanins, to the moist, sweet version, dark orange with beta-carotene, that is popular in the United States and was confusingly named a “yam” in 1930s marketing campaigns (for true yams, see p. 306). The bulk of the U.S. crop is grown in the Southeast and cured for several days at 86ºF/30ºC to heal damaged skin and encourage sugar develop
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