Central Yunnan offers travellers a chance to combine some well-touristed spots with those a little more off the tourist trail. The well-trod paths at Shílín are equal parts lover's labyrinth and tourist trap but still undoubtedly atmospheric, especially at sunset. Likewise the backpacker hangout town of Dàlǐ is still worth a visit and undeniably fun, if just to gaze at the Three Pagodas and down a Heineken or three for a few days. Around the crowded spots you'll find numerous opportunities for a little reflection, notably exploring the shoreline of Ěrhǎi Hú (Ear-Shaped Lake) or even kicking back in Kunming, as laidback a big city as China can offer.