Burton did follow an escapist route via Kabuki, Henri Matisse, and Japanese kimono silk and paper screens for inspiration at surface level. She dedicated segments to Matisse, borrowing the French artist’s collages that reference the human form, and his shades of blue reflected in the floral abstract motifs hand-stitched on oversize Prince of Wales tailored houndstooth fabric. Bomber jackets were rendered in collages of mink, and there were echoes of the artist’s minimal arrangements in the embellishments, like hand-cut silk and organza petals and mirrored hearts applied in floral motifs. The result? Form-fitting dresses that appeared three-dimensional. Serving reality and fantasy in equal measure, this recipe for resort was tempting to say the least.