The raid starts in a leisurely way. we have tea and rice crackers. Cha Byoung-chul, a middlevel bureaucrat at Seoul's Gangnam district office of education, is the leader of this patrol. Like any man trying to undo centuries of tradition, he is in no hurry. "We don't leave at 10 p.m. sharp," he explains. "we want to give them 20 minutes or so. That way, there are no excuses." Finally, we pile into a silver Kia Sorento and head into Daechi-dong, one of Seoul's busiest hagwon districts. The inspectors walk down the sidewalk, staring up at the floors where hagwons are located - above the Dunkin' Donuts and the Kraze Burgers - looking for telltale silvers of light behind drawn shades.