Just as the world long ago habituated itself to the taste of Coca-Cola, so its wine lovers are inuring themselves to the fruity delights of a cheap but perplexing product. And the supermarkets are catching on fast. My local Makro has at least 10 examples, mostly boxed, of fruit wine. As for fine wines, crippled by taxes and undermined by smuggling rings that supply many resorts, they are beyond the financial reach of most consumers. No wonder the upscale trade is in crisis.