A sophomore collection can be a tough test for an up-and-comer still establishing his identity, but Prabal Gurung passed with flying colors. In an economic climate that must make it tempting to cut whatever corners you can, it's clear that this is a young designer devoted to the craft of making clothes, and to making them with some of the finest materials out there. The starting point for Gurung's 26-look lineup was a bottle of his mother's YSL Rive Gauche perfume from the 1970's. "I loved it," he said, "and I love product design, so I thought about playing with the idea of packaging." There was one double-faced charmeuse dress wrapped with spiraling horsehair like, well, a package, but that bit of tongue-in-cheek aside, Gurung is deadly serious about the business of looking chic.