My first visit to Afghanistan was in 1994. I was on an assignment for The Observer. I’d always wanted to go. I’d heard so much about the country and its history. At that time there was a ferocious civil war going on. I’d never been in a war zone before. I have to be honest, it can be traumatic, but I found Afghanistan to be a deeply moving place with fascinating people. It’s hard to walk away from the place. I think I’ve been there fourteen times now.