In the dry season, the highest wave height and period are 10.5 m and 11. seconds,respectively. At this time strong wave energy with waves of 4-m significant height occur, whereas in the rainy season, wave heights are not larger than 3 m andTs¼5–12 seconds. Although the waves offshore can be very high, we will
show later in our modelling approach that the very gentle
slopes of the foreshore cause a strong damping of the wave
heights to arrive inshore. This also implies that annual
variations in the wave data need not be considered.