The Martin-less Maison Margiela started on a new road last year, away from the checklist replaying of the codes of its founder. It began with a new spirit in the Artisanal collection and benefited by being shown on the Couture schedule. The crystal mask that Kanye has been seen cavorting in this week onstage? That was from the Fall 2012 Artisanal offering—and was originally worn by a girl.