He dressed women in feathers and shells; topped their heads with birds, butterflies, and topiaries; and transformed them into chess pieces and denizens of Plato's mythical Atlantis. But it was one of Alexander McQueen's earliest collections that was most directly rooted in surrealism. His spring 1997 show, "La Poupée," was dedicated to surrealist photographer Hans Bellmer. And though there were no literal references to the bound and distorted dolls that Bellmer caught on film, McQueen did explore notions of the manipulated body on the runway, introducing his bumster trouser and accessorizing a model in a cage-like contraption that let's just say did not become the next big trend at retail.