Dining with the locals
Alternatively, aim north of the Rhône to the indulgent, richly decorated Café de Paris at Rue du Mont-Blanc. The only dish at this theatrical bistro is sirloin, cooked to your wishes and served with herb butter, three helpings of frites and green salad. Simple, but heavenly.
Out to brunch
The machine that gave the Pont de la Machine (5) its name formerly occupied the building in the middle and pumped water to the city's lesser fountains. Today, the structure houses the Cité du Temps – an unusual combination of art space, Swatch museum and chic lounge-restaurant, Au Phil du Temps (00 41 22 818 39 00; citedutemps.com). It opens 9am-6pm daily.