by inserting the wave number and wave angular frequency. Thus, the small
amplitude wave theory yields a cosine surface proWle. This is reasonable for low
amplitude waves, but with increasing wave amplitude the surface proWle becomes
vertically asymmetric with a more peaked wave crest and aXatter wave trough
(as will be shown in Chapter 3).
Combining the KSBC and the DSBC by eliminating the water surface eleva
tion yields