we are anxious to get to genjyu-an, the peaceful shrine near lake biwa where basho's remains lie. A man steps from the modest gift stop to show us the grave itself. Incense is burning. in the small pond there are two turtles. i dip the long-handled wooden dipper in bucket and pour water over the gravestone. the basho tree is flowering. there is the song of insects and, as if welcoming the evening, the cry of a bird. the train station is close by; there are noises of car traffic, students on bicycles, and crowded streets.