their substrate if working on a mixing line, or
nearly all commercial mixes have wetting agents
incorporated. In North America, we initially water
our pots to full saturation (based on long standing
advice) before putting them into the cooler. This
is somewhat different from Holland, where one
really does not see spring bulb forcers fully saturating
the media at planting time. One idea put
forth is that coolers in Holland perhaps are designed
differently, with coils and mechanical components
that pull less water from the product in
the room. In this way, pots dry out less during the
long cold period.
In any case, extra water in the pot has a major
effect on the degree of root growth during cooling.
Plants that are kept wet for the entire cold period
will have longer roots and a greater total root
mass than pots kept on the dry side. This can
have a practical benefit on reducing Trichoderma
problems during forcing.
On the other hand, it is important to not let pots
and trays dry out, so the practice of keeping the
floor wet to maintain high humidity is a good one.
How To Avoid Heaving out of the Pot
A recurring problem that can lead to significant
losses is the phenomenon of bulbs lifting themselves
out of the soil during initial root growth.
This problem is very simply caused by there not
being enough weight above the bulb to counter
the force exerted by roots growing down into the
soil. In Holland, this problem is solved in a rather
complex way by shallow planting of the bulbs
(mostly, just placing the bulbs on top of the pots
of soil), then covering them with a 2-3” thick piece
of foam rubber that holds the bulbs down when
the next tray is placed on top of them. After 3-4
weeks, when bulbs are well rooted, the stacks are
broken down, the foam rubber removed to be
used in the later planting, and bulbs returned to
the cooler to complete cooling. This leads to bulb
products (especially daffodils, hyacinths and muscari)
that feature the bulb itself, and significantly
enhances the overall product.
their substrate if working on a mixing line, ornearly all commercial mixes have wetting agentsincorporated. In North America, we initially waterour pots to full saturation (based on long standingadvice) before putting them into the cooler. Thisis somewhat different from Holland, where onereally does not see spring bulb forcers fully saturatingthe media at planting time. One idea putforth is that coolers in Holland perhaps are designeddifferently, with coils and mechanical componentsthat pull less water from the product inthe room. In this way, pots dry out less during thelong cold period.In any case, extra water in the pot has a majoreffect on the degree of root growth during cooling.Plants that are kept wet for the entire cold periodwill have longer roots and a greater total rootmass than pots kept on the dry side. This canhave a practical benefit on reducing Trichodermaproblems during forcing.On the other hand, it is important to not let potsand trays dry out, so the practice of keeping thefloor wet to maintain high humidity is a good one.How To Avoid Heaving out of the PotA recurring problem that can lead to significantlosses is the phenomenon of bulbs lifting themselvesout of the soil during initial root growth.This problem is very simply caused by there notbeing enough weight above the bulb to counterthe force exerted by roots growing down into thesoil. In Holland, this problem is solved in a rathercomplex way by shallow planting of the bulbs(mostly, just placing the bulbs on top of the potsof soil), then covering them with a 2-3” thick pieceof foam rubber that holds the bulbs down whenthe next tray is placed on top of them. After 3-4weeks, when bulbs are well rooted, the stacks arebroken down, the foam rubber removed to beused in the later planting, and bulbs returned tothe cooler to complete cooling. This leads to bulbproducts (especially daffodils, hyacinths and muscari)that feature the bulb itself, and significantlyenhances the overall product.
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