Breeding Hares can be a real puzzle. Different bucks and does react to the breeding situation differently. You have to be prepared to adapt your breeding practices to the Hare's preferences as you discover what these preferences are.
Remember that Belgian Hares, like all rabbits are induced ovulators; a doe can conceive at any time she is bred. However, the doe has a 10-14 day receptivity cycle. During her receptivity period she will accept the buck readily. A receptive doe can be identified by the dark pink, moist, appearance of her private parts. If you have a receptive doe to breed, by all means, try placing her in your buck's cage first, but watch them carefully. In many instances, the buck, the doe, or both animals can become so upset by the appearance of the other Hare, that they will either attack (and you will have a real fight on your hands) or retreat to a corner and cower. In either case, nothing will be accomplished. If you're lucky, the buck will mount the doe and complete his business with dispatch
I have never had only limited success with "forced breeding" of non receptive does; however, I have found this technique useful with receptive does under other circumstances, e.g., when a smaller doe is not able to support a larger buck during breeding. An excellent description of the "forced breeding" technique is presented in the ARBA Guide Book.
A method of breeding used very successfully by some breeders is the "honeymoon cottage." In this method, a large cage, at least 60 inches long is partitioned into two parts with a plywood wall. The smaller part should be about 18 inches long, and the larger, 42 inches. The plywood wall should have a 6 inch round hole through it at the doe's shoulder height. A clean, sterilized cage should be used so that there are no other animal odors on it. In other words, the cage should be "neutral ground." I usually place cardboard over the smaller part of the cage to darken it, and bed both side with lots of straw. I place both the buck and doe in the cage together. Honeymoon Cottage1At first they will chase each other around; back and forth through the hole. After a while, the doe will discover that when the buck's amorous advances became too much, she can defend her territory, i.e., her side of the cage, by standing with her head in the hole. I leave them together for 10 - 14 days. After a while, both buck and doe seem to get along very well, eating and drinking together peaceably. They will mate when both buck and does are ready. After 10 - 14 days I remove the buck. I keep cleaning out the larger part of the cage, leaving the cardboard covered smaller part alone. After a while, the doe will make a nest on the floor of the darkened, smaller, part of the cage. Then comes the hard part. After making sure that there are no dead kits in the nest I let the doe and her litter alone. I clean the larger part of the cage regularly, but I try not to upset the doe so that she jumps repeatedly through the hole. You don't want her to trample her kits. After about 14 days, the little Hares will be leaping through the hole to get to the pellets. The plywood wall can then be removed and the cage thoroughly cleaned. Honeymoon Cottage2
I have found that the "honeymoon cottage" works with some of the most stubborn breeding pairs. I usually wean the litter at about 8 weeks by removing the doe. The litter can be left together for up to 4 months or until you see the bucks trying to mount the does. Then you will have to separate the sexes