In the early 1980s a new breed of independent thinking and largely
Japanese designers made its appearance on the fashion scenario, transforming
it deeply. Influenced by the minimalism of their own art and culture, designers Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo (Commes Des garcons),7 Issey Miyake and,
later in the decade, the Belgian Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester and
Dries Van Noten largely pioneered the fashion revolution.
As recalled by fashion experts, 1981 is the year in which both Yamamoto e
Kawakubo showed for the first time their collection in Paris. Their appearance
forced “the representatives of the world’s press to examine their
consciences”.8 Rejecting every clichéd notion of what glamour should be, or
the fashionable silhouette should look like, they disclosed in fact a new
approach to clothing in the post-industrial, late 20th century society. Their
major contribution consisted, and still consists, in their endless challenging
the relationship between memory and modernity, enduring and ephemeral. At
first, the austere, demure, often second hand look of their creations induced
some journalists to describe it as ‘post-punk’, or ‘grunge’. Nevertheless, the
disruptive force of their works resided not only in their undoing the structure
of a specific garment, in renouncing to finish, in working through subtractions
or displacements, but also, and above all, in rethinking the function and the
meaning of the garment itself. They inaugurated, thus, a fertile reflection that
questioned the relationship between the body and the garment, as well as the
concept of ‘body’ itself.
Almost a decade later, in July 1993, an article on ‘deconstructionist’ fashion
appeared in The New York Times, with the intention of clarifying the origin
and the directionality of this new movement, of such a still mysterious avantgarde.
A ‘sartorial family tree’ immediately emerged:
In the early 1980s a new breed of independent thinking and largelyJapanese designers made its appearance on the fashion scenario, transformingit deeply. Influenced by the minimalism of their own art and culture, designers Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo (Commes Des garcons),7 Issey Miyake and,later in the decade, the Belgian Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester andDries Van Noten largely pioneered the fashion revolution.As recalled by fashion experts, 1981 is the year in which both Yamamoto eKawakubo showed for the first time their collection in Paris. Their appearanceforced “the representatives of the world’s press to examine theirconsciences”.8 Rejecting every clichéd notion of what glamour should be, orthe fashionable silhouette should look like, they disclosed in fact a newapproach to clothing in the post-industrial, late 20th century society. Theirmajor contribution consisted, and still consists, in their endless challengingthe relationship between memory and modernity, enduring and ephemeral. Atfirst, the austere, demure, often second hand look of their creations inducedsome journalists to describe it as ‘post-punk’, or ‘grunge’. Nevertheless, thedisruptive force of their works resided not only in their undoing the structureof a specific garment, in renouncing to finish, in working through subtractionsor displacements, but also, and above all, in rethinking the function and theความหมายของเสื้อผ้าตัวเอง พวกเขาแห่ง ดังนั้น สะท้อนความอุดมสมบูรณ์ที่ความสัมพันธ์ระหว่างร่างกายและเสื้อผ้า ไต่สวนตลอดจนแนวคิดของ 'ร่างกาย' เองเกือบทศวรรษ ในเดือน 1993 กรกฎาคม บทความแฟชั่น 'deconstructionist'ปรากฏใน The New York Times ตั้งใจทำจุดเริ่มต้นและทิศการนี้ใหม่ย้าย avantgarde ยังคงลึกลับ'Sartorial แฟมิลี่ทรี' ทันทีปรากฏขึ้น:
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