Here's how the program notes stripped the first outfit to its bare bones: "Ruby Jean, T-shirt, short." Thinking back to last season's surreal extravagance, it was brutally clear that speed was of the essence for Marc Jacobs this time round. The show started at eight on the dot. It was over five minutes later. With her blond hair and dark brow, her T-shirt and ballet T-bars, Ruby Jean was a twenty-first-century spit of Edie Sedgwick. On the soundtrack, The Fall did their more than passable imitation of the Velvet Underground's glorious racket. Jacobs was arrowing back to the Factory, the icy pinnacle of New York cool where Edie reigned as the archetypal It girl, and the monochrome, amphetamine-sharp brilliance of the designer's vision cut a precise swathe through all the uncertain murk that swirls around pop culture right now.