I wanted to revive the beauty of incredible fabrics," said Miuccia, but almost in the next breath, she revealed how conflicted her relationship with beauty is. For the umpteenth time, she said beauty was "an impossibility." And, yet again, she showed how a seductive new kind of dark beauty could be literally pieced together from ingredients as unpromising as scraps of brocade and raw cotton. Maybe that's what she meant when she talked about "a confrontation with antiquity," in which the old would be made new. And you could really see the make of these clothes.