Oh god... every point in your (and I mean EVERY point!) is exactly why I want to get the hell out of there, and over there! I'm working on it....but it won't be til next year for various reasons. My quest at the moment is to make it in March now rather than September. You've described everything that I also love my Thailand - and I have enjoyed reading of your insights and exploits. It's nice that you've embraced the country in the way that you have.