Non-Korean chefs haven't been far behind. Take Chris Cipollone, the chef of Piora in the West Village. On a mostly Western/Italian menu, he relies on Korean ingredients for punch, or as he puts it, something "refined that still captures a rustic appeal." His most popular dish is a plate of bucatini cooked with funky preserved black garlic, Dungeness crab, maitake mushroom, and chilis. "Using some Korean ingredients has caused some intrigue for sure, but I think it stems from the way we use them."
To Cipollone, Korean and Italian cooking traditions are more similar than you'd think: "The usage of what's around you, knowing when to preserve or to serve fresh. Both countries are very regional; every area has the thing that they specialize in."
Cipollone argues that American diners eased themselves into Korean cuisine through relatable ideas like the Korean barbecue, food trucks, and fried chicken. Once Americans became comfortable with these foundations, they were ready to dig deeper. "This has paved a way for people to understand and embrace the true Korean cuisine, and what it's really about," he said. "It's all about education and getting people excited.