Despite rampant Chinese-led modernisation, Lhasa (literally the 'Place of the Gods') is still largely a city of wonders. Your first view of the red and white Potala Palace soaring above the holy city will raise goosebumps and the charming whitewashed old Tibetan quarter continues to preserve the flavour of traditional Tibetan life. It is here in the Jokhang, an otherworldly mix of flickering butter lamps, wafting incense and prostrating