The set on the runway at Yohji Yamamoto was a rectangle of thin scaffolding. Painted bright red, it suggested something sporty. As the first looks came out, the suggestion took on substance. Draped jersey dresses had a streetwise edge with flat combat boots and dip-dyed punk hair, and looked like the kind of designer riffs on athletic gear that were big in the nineties. The graphic punch of those black and red knits, wrapped a bit helter-skelter about the body, echoed Yamamoto's work at Y-3, a reference you saw last season as well.