The adult-only W is a tropical island playground which has just had a revamp: swim-up pool bar, white-tented spa, 78 modern villas (including overwater villas with glass floors), each with a wine fridge alongside the mini bar, and the 15 Below bar, a subterranean club with more than 90 vodkas to sample. There are watersports galore, from kitesurfing and diving to Seabobs (scooters that propel you along underwater 007-style), and don’t miss dining at Fire, an outdoor jungle Mongolian-style barbecue