The city’s thriving food-stall culture, which encourages artisans to pick a food (seasonal fruit pops, Korean fried chicken, Lebanese yogurt) and work endlessly to perfect it, is suited to barbecue, a field notorious for nourishing perfectionism, competition and even intimidation. The version by Daniel Delaney, the owner of BrisketTown, is close to brisket Nirvana: smoky meat topped with wobbly, savory fat, rimmed with a lip-numbing crust of coarse black pepper. “It’s a small number of things to get right,” he said, “and I am haunted by all of them.”