In the coastal town of Ilulissat, western Greenland, winter beckons. Soon much of Disko Bay will be frozen and the men will take to their husky-drawn sleds, cutting holes in the ice for fish and seal. But while the sea is still slush, the gigantic icebergs move, and they are spoken of with the most evocative Greenlandic words. Siku for ice. qaqaq for mountainous.