'How d'y'all find this place?' a young guy shouted in my ear as we stood drinking beer and swaying to the band. Someone told us about it and brought us here, was the answer. You need to know someone local, or to have heard about it on the musical grapevine.
One such pilgrim is a Dutch music journalist, Marc Stakenburg, who's written a book about the music of the American Deep South and has travelled widely in the region.