There was no theme to this latest collection from Zuhair Murad, who typically falls under the spell of narratives that ricochet from mythical to architectural and back again. In a way, this worked in his favor because it allowed him to present graphic, floral, shockingly pink, and femme fatale groupings all without forcing a link. But in fact, there was one—the same one that has always defined Murad as a designer: flagrantly feminine glamour.
In the broadest terms, this lineup reissued all of his favorite silhouettes: requisite flounced frocks, body-con dresses, siren gowns, jumpsuits, and evening suiting. No news there. But there were some noteworthy points of interest, including a plunging-V short onesie and full skirts with bustiers precisely matched to expose a finger-width of midsection. Both looked fresh. As usual, surface detail made all the difference, from square paillettes employed to give the flower print a pixelated effect to encrustations of geometric beading that wrapped around a tulle sheath like a psychedelic ribbon. And for some, the solid shades of fuchsia, magenta, and hibiscus might be trippy enough. It's quite incredible to think that the zippered slits down bodices qualified as the collection's most restrained embellishment. A flash of side boob compared to a blitz of beading. Take your pick.