The proper sequence of events in boosting a car is often a function of whom you speak to or what information you read. For safety sake some people recommend that the car with the good battery be turned off when making the connections. This however, can create an immediate problem if the “dead” battery is in such a bad state that when it is hooked up to the good battery, it will immediately drain It to the point that neither car will start. With this in mind, it does make some sense to leave the car running to ensure that the charging process continues until the starting of the disabled car is initiated. Because accidents do happen, It is strongly recommended that the person making the connections wear the proper type of protective eye equipment. Take sufficient time to be sure that you know which are the positive and negative terminals for both cars. If it’s not immediately obvious, keep in mind that the negative or ground side is usually connected to the chassis of the car with a relatively short, heavy wire when you are sure of which are positive and negative terminals. First connect one of the red wire clamps of the booster cables to the positive terminal of the discharged battery-all the while being sure that other red clamp is not touching the battery or car. Then connect the other end of the red wire to the positive terminal of the fully charged battery. Next, connect one end of the black cable of the booster cables to the negative terminal of the booster battery, and finally connect the other end of the black cable to the engine block of the stalled vehicle (not the negative post of the dead battery) away from the carburetor, fuel lines, or moving parts of the car. Lastly, have someone maintain a constant idle speed in the car with the good battery as you start the car with the bad battery. After the vehicle starts, remove the cables in the reverse order starting with the cable connected to the engine block. Always be careful to ensure that clamps don’t touch the battery or chassis of the car or get near any moving parts. Some people feel that the car with the good battery should charge the bad battery for 5 to 10 minutes before starting the disabled car so the disabled car will be essentially using its own battery in the starting process. Keep In mind that the instant the booster cables are connected. The booster car will be making a concerted effort to charge both its own battery and the drained battery. At starting it will then be asked to supply a heavy current to start the other car. It’s a pretty heavy load to put on a single battery #1, and the charging current will flow as shown. The resistance in series with the boosting battery is more because of the long length of the booster cable to the other car. The current is limited only by the series milli ohm resistance of the batteries, but the voltage difference is so small that the starting current will be in safe range for the cables involved. The initial charging current will be
I = (12 V - 11.7 V)/(20 mΩ + 10 mΩ) = 0.3 V/30 mΩ = 10 A. At starting. The current levels will be as shown in Fig for the resistance levels and battery voltages assumed. At starting. An internal resistance for the starting circuit of 0.1 Ω = 100 mΩ is assumed. Note that the battery of the disabled car has now charged up to 11.8 V with an associated increase in its power level. The presence of two batteries requires that the analysis wait for the methods to be introduced in the next chapter
The proper sequence of events in boosting a car is often a function of whom you speak to or what information you read. For safety sake some people recommend that the car with the good battery be turned off when making the connections. This however, can create an immediate problem if the “dead” battery is in such a bad state that when it is hooked up to the good battery, it will immediately drain It to the point that neither car will start. With this in mind, it does make some sense to leave the car running to ensure that the charging process continues until the starting of the disabled car is initiated. Because accidents do happen, It is strongly recommended that the person making the connections wear the proper type of protective eye equipment. Take sufficient time to be sure that you know which are the positive and negative terminals for both cars. If it’s not immediately obvious, keep in mind that the negative or ground side is usually connected to the chassis of the car with a relatively short, heavy wire when you are sure of which are positive and negative terminals. First connect one of the red wire clamps of the booster cables to the positive terminal of the discharged battery-all the while being sure that other red clamp is not touching the battery or car. Then connect the other end of the red wire to the positive terminal of the fully charged battery. Next, connect one end of the black cable of the booster cables to the negative terminal of the booster battery, and finally connect the other end of the black cable to the engine block of the stalled vehicle (not the negative post of the dead battery) away from the carburetor, fuel lines, or moving parts of the car. Lastly, have someone maintain a constant idle speed in the car with the good battery as you start the car with the bad battery. After the vehicle starts, remove the cables in the reverse order starting with the cable connected to the engine block. Always be careful to ensure that clamps don’t touch the battery or chassis of the car or get near any moving parts. Some people feel that the car with the good battery should charge the bad battery for 5 to 10 minutes before starting the disabled car so the disabled car will be essentially using its own battery in the starting process. Keep In mind that the instant the booster cables are connected. The booster car will be making a concerted effort to charge both its own battery and the drained battery. At starting it will then be asked to supply a heavy current to start the other car. It’s a pretty heavy load to put on a single battery #1, and the charging current will flow as shown. The resistance in series with the boosting battery is more because of the long length of the booster cable to the other car. The current is limited only by the series milli ohm resistance of the batteries, but the voltage difference is so small that the starting current will be in safe range for the cables involved. The initial charging current will be I = (12 V - 11.7 V)/(20 mΩ + 10 mΩ) = 0.3 V/30 mΩ = 10 A. At starting. The current levels will be as shown in Fig for the resistance levels and battery voltages assumed. At starting. An internal resistance for the starting circuit of 0.1 Ω = 100 mΩ is assumed. Note that the battery of the disabled car has now charged up to 11.8 V with an associated increase in its power level. The presence of two batteries requires that the analysis wait for the methods to be introduced in the next chapter
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