What really gave SeaDream II the edge for me was the service, which constantly surprised me -- more so than that of any other luxury brand I've experienced. Whatever upheaval the company's head office has gone through (founding CEO Larry Pimentel left abruptly a year ago, taking some key executives with him), it doesn't show on board. The crew are dedicated, proactive and empowered. They think for you -- and this includes the bar waiters -- and guess, correctly, what you're vaguely contemplating, whether it's a table under the stars on Deck Five or an ice-cold beer as you walk up the gangway after a long, hot day ashore. Some have been with the ships since their early Sea Goddess days, while others come from private yachts; the maitre d' on my cruise had worked on the yacht of the Saudi royal family.