Though just 2 km south of central Siem Reab, the provincial capital that is the gateway to the world-famous Angkor Archeological Park, this market a busting commercial space, is far removed from the tourism circuit. Here, the stock in trade is freshwater fish caught in the nearby Tonle sap, the largest lake in Southeast Asia. There is snakehead, of course, a common catch that Riviere describes as “the chicken of lake”. Then there are the more unusual species, such as trey andat chhke (literally “ the fish shaped like a dog tongue”), and a small freshwater sole that Riviere like to pan-fry and serve with a mango dip. “Perfect for a tasting menu,“he says, buying a large bag of fish.