There were no guides at Mohenjo Daro the day I was there, no one running after us. There were no postcards, no souvenirs, no leaflets about the site. There were a couple of intelligence or security-type fellows with guns who seemed particularly interested in the foreign passport holders in our party. I ignored them as we listened to my companions, who said some archaeologists think, given the current rate of crumbling, the site will not exist in two decades.