Zuhair Murad’s business works in reverse compared with most other fashion brands in that glitzy, embellished special-occasion pieces make up his core offering followed by his daywear. Jeans and a sweatshirt? With him, these are novelties. Yet they could both be found among an expanded Resort offering that referenced photographer David Hamilton and painter Henri Rousseau in “an imaginary dialogue.” The hallmarks of each artist played out individually; Hamilton’s 1970s bohemian ingenues were conjured up with gauzy pastel dresses in tiers of plumetis and Chantilly lace with smocked detailing, or delicately knit palazzo pants and flowy beachside dresses in all-white; whereas vibrant embroideries of tropical flora and fauna nodded to Rousseau’s tropical scenes.
Bringing them together necessitated wide creative license—as when some of the looks got lost in their patterned jungle—so it’s probably best to move on from drawing additional parallels. Which is not to suggest the collection lacked talking points. Those seeking newness may gravitate toward a white fur bolero boldly patterned with multicolored floral sprigs, white or black jeans with tone-on-tone embroidery, and a dress in which an extended tulip-shaped high waistline met a sculpted bra top. Fans of flash might think to refresh their wardrobes with the bleached jeans, this time covered in multihued embroidery, the crystal-emblazoned sweatshirt boasting “Haute Street” and “Zuhair Murad,” or else any of the looks in black tulle, from which the exotic printed and beaded appliqués bloomed fullest. Finally, an asymmetrically draped suede jumpsuit and the tricolor macramé lace dresses will attract those who prefer the designer in softly feminine mode rather than fierce.