If his audience was bemused by the distinctly un-Erdem-like collection he presented today, Mr. Moralioglu himself was way ahead of them. "It's a departure," he declared before the show. "Leaving certain things out felt like freedom." So, with clean slates on his mind, Erdem looked to that ineffably English institution the public school for inspiration. But it wasn't so much posh rugger buggers storming around in a pubertal stew of hormones that he drew on to shape the nature of his new collection. Thank heavens for that small mercy. Rather, it was, as he put it, "rebels and jocks and nerds and boys who put their mothers' couture dresses over their school shirts." More Sebastian Flyte, in other words. Which explained at least one recurring theme in the show: the crisp cotton shirtdresses veiled in swaths of tulle.