the first step in the production of silk after the cocoons have been gathered is called Saaw Mai. First, the cocoons are boiled in order to separate the intricate web of thread. From there, each strand is meticulously pulled out. In order for silk to be high-quality, strands from several cocoons must be pulled out simultaneously so that they will entwine to form larger, stronger threads. This, in turn, results in silk that reflects light and has a high sheer.
Next, the threads are placed on a wheel and made into spools in a process called Grew Mai. While the threads are being spun, warm water is used to increase their elasticity. Strands that have passed the Grew Mai step should be smooth, straight, and continuous throughout.
The third step is called Tii Gleaw, and involves combining the spools obtained in the Grew Mai process into plies. This ensures that the silk will not separate during weaving. From here the plies are bleached and dyed in preparation for weaving.
Taw Mai or the weaving, is the climax of the silk production process for it involves incorporating hours of painstaking preparation into unrivalled artistic expression and beauty. Two types of silk are used in weaving. One, called ‘Yim silk’, is used for background and the other, ‘Pung silk’, is used for designs. Instruments used in weaving are the Hoog and the Gi Gradook. Both require craftsmanship, knowledge, and experience on the part of the weaver in order to produce the design and pattern desired. This is especially true of intricate designs such as the Pha Yok Dok Tong and the Pha Yok Dok Ngern in which one misplaced strand would arrest the pattern’s freedom and flow.