A couple more updates. First, I discovered that this head is actually cast from a CP1 doll, not CP2 as I originally thought (which is even better since that's the exact doll I want to duplicate). After some close scrutiny of the eyes and scaling them properly against the nose and other features on the face, I realized the eye sockets needed to be cut open 1/8 inch wider on either side and needed to be more oval shaped and less round. This was one of the most difficult and nerve racking things I've ever done in prop making because this head is rubber, not resin, so it's very hard to cut in a clean line and if I made a mistake, there's really no way to repair it well. Using some petroleum jelly to lubricate the blade and going through four fresh blades, I managed to do a little plastic surgery on Chucky and get the eye sockets just right. Really the eyes are going to determine the look of the doll, and I want them to be just right:
Along those same lines, I also decided the irises on my previous eyes were too large, so I made some smaller iris eyes. This time, I documented the painting process a little better. I just have to lacquer coat them tomorrow.:
I also created a pattern for the sweater. I'm getting the material custom knit for me by two different people (going to use the one I like best and sell off the other):
I mocked up the sweater using a cheap knit striped fabric I found at the store. I think the pattern looks spot on. Chucky is rocking his prison convict look:
I thought I'd take this opportunity to show off my micro vac-former. I build this dinky little thing with parts from the hardware store so I could vacuform tiny parts without having to waste a whole sheet of styrene on my bigger table. I heat the styrene with a heat gun and use a regular household vacuum to provide the suction. It does the job for tiny little parts:
I'm using it to make the eyelids for my doll. The hero dolls had plastic eyelids and I like the look of them, so I decided to include them on my doll:
OCD ALERT!!!!! I test fit the previous eyes I made. The first irises were too big, so I made some smaller ones. But those are too small!!!
So I made a THIRD set of eyes that are in between and I think I'll stick with these. They don't have lacquer on them yet so they don't have that nice glassy quality. I have to wait for the decals to fully dry and I'll lacquer coat them this weekend:
Started painting the head. Acrylic paints work okay on this rubber, but in order to make it truly durable, you need to paint urethane rubber with tinted urethane rubber. I'm following this method:
Painted the mouth first, which is the easiest part. This stuff is a little nightmare to work with. It's like painting with cake icing. You can't really use it like traditional paint. It's very translucent, so you just have to sort of glob it on there and spread it around so it self levels. In order to get a matte finish, you have to wait until the urethane cures to its tacky state and then dust talcum powder on it. When it's fully cured, you wash the talc off. The overall effect isn't bad and it will never come off:
A couple more updates. First, I discovered that this head is actually cast from a CP1 doll, not CP2 as I originally thought (which is even better since that's the exact doll I want to duplicate). After some close scrutiny of the eyes and scaling them properly against the nose and other features on the face, I realized the eye sockets needed to be cut open 1/8 inch wider on either side and needed to be more oval shaped and less round. This was one of the most difficult and nerve racking things I've ever done in prop making because this head is rubber, not resin, so it's very hard to cut in a clean line and if I made a mistake, there's really no way to repair it well. Using some petroleum jelly to lubricate the blade and going through four fresh blades, I managed to do a little plastic surgery on Chucky and get the eye sockets just right. Really the eyes are going to determine the look of the doll, and I want them to be just right:
Along those same lines, I also decided the irises on my previous eyes were too large, so I made some smaller iris eyes. This time, I documented the painting process a little better. I just have to lacquer coat them tomorrow.:
I also created a pattern for the sweater. I'm getting the material custom knit for me by two different people (going to use the one I like best and sell off the other):
I mocked up the sweater using a cheap knit striped fabric I found at the store. I think the pattern looks spot on. Chucky is rocking his prison convict look:
I thought I'd take this opportunity to show off my micro vac-former. I build this dinky little thing with parts from the hardware store so I could vacuform tiny parts without having to waste a whole sheet of styrene on my bigger table. I heat the styrene with a heat gun and use a regular household vacuum to provide the suction. It does the job for tiny little parts:
I'm using it to make the eyelids for my doll. The hero dolls had plastic eyelids and I like the look of them, so I decided to include them on my doll:
OCD ALERT!!!!! I test fit the previous eyes I made. The first irises were too big, so I made some smaller ones. But those are too small!!!
So I made a THIRD set of eyes that are in between and I think I'll stick with these. They don't have lacquer on them yet so they don't have that nice glassy quality. I have to wait for the decals to fully dry and I'll lacquer coat them this weekend:
Started painting the head. Acrylic paints work okay on this rubber, but in order to make it truly durable, you need to paint urethane rubber with tinted urethane rubber. I'm following this method:
Painted the mouth first, which is the easiest part. This stuff is a little nightmare to work with. It's like painting with cake icing. You can't really use it like traditional paint. It's very translucent, so you just have to sort of glob it on there and spread it around so it self levels. In order to get a matte finish, you have to wait until the urethane cures to its tacky state and then dust talcum powder on it. When it's fully cured, you wash the talc off. The overall effect isn't bad and it will never come off:
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