This on-the-river neighborhood rises with the sun and never slows down. Cobblestone pathways wind through Trastevere’s ivy-covered trattorias and weathering apartments, while umbrella-shaded outdoor cafes line alleyways filled with tattoo shops and microbreweries. By day, Trastevere exudes subtle sophistication as occupants count the legs on their wine glasses. As evening approaches, street performers, scruffy poets, bearded skateboarders, and exuberant merry-makers flood Trastevere’s countless clubs, bars, and piazzas in fits of reckless abandon and indiscreet enthusiasm.