After his tour de force collection of last season, it appears that Yohji Yamamoto is now gleefully back with a vengeance. If that last show was something of a "greatest hits" with the freshest of spins, this season is a varied selection of hits to come. The new spirit that is possessing Yamamoto is timely. If there are two designers whose oeuvres are being looked at by many others this season, it is Yohji Yamamoto's and Issey Miyake's. And now Yamamoto is showing them how it is done in the present.