Published on Sew4Home
Safari Duffle in Canvas & Faux Leather
Editor: Liz Johnson
Friday, 06 June 2014 1:00
Can't you picture Harrison Ford slinging this amazing duffle over his shoulder as Indiana Jones?! We blended heavy canvas
and faux leather with webbing and brass zipper accents for the dashing exterior. Inside is a tough rip-stop nylon lining. Even if
you're not a world-renowned archeologist and adventurer, this bag is is great way to pack your stuff, whether you're heading
across town to the gym or getting away for the weekend. Father's Day is coming up, and this would make a very nice gift for
your personal action hero. The combination of fabrics, colors and textures has the perfect feel – a little bit retro and a whole lot
cool (just like Dad).
1
Our finished bag looks like you could have grabbed it off the shelf at Eddie Bauer®, but don't let the professional finish scare
you off. Achieving a polished end result is often easier than you might think. Read through the project a few times before you
start, then if a particular part has you stumped, try doing it with scraps to get the hang of it before moving on to your final fabric.
And of course, we offer our trademark S4H details and photos to help you through each step.
2
We do strongly recommend the heavy canvas and faux leather combo to insure your duffle has the stability and durability you
want for active, on-the-go (safari style) use.
The bag finishes at approximately 22" wide x 11" high.
3
Sewing Tools You Need
Any Sewing Machine (we recommend the Janome Horizon Memory Craft 8900 QCP)
Walking foot - the MC8900 QCP has the built-in AcuFeed Flex™ system, which we used (with the optional narrow
walking foot VD) - and love. If you do not have a built-in feeding system, we recommend a Walking foot or similar for
working with the tricky and/or thick layers.
Adjustable Zipper foot - again, we used the built-in AcuFeed Flex™ system on the MC8900 QCP (with the optional
zipper foot ED). If you do not have a built-in feeding system, we recommend an Adjustable Narrow Base Zipper foot.
Fabric and Other Supplies
1 yard of 58"+ wide medium to heavy-weight cotton fabric for the bag top exterior; we used 60" wide medium-heavy
weight 9 oz. Canvas in Khaki (#EL-239) from Fabric.com
½ yard of 45"+ wide heavy-weight faux leather for the bag bottom exterior; we used 54" wide upholstery weight Faux
Leather in Boca Cocoa (item #CW-699) from Fabric.com
1 yard of 58"+ wide lightweight nylon fabric for the bag lining; we used 62" wide Rip Stop Nylon in Brown (item #DL-264)
from Fabric.com
1¼ yards of 45" heavyweight fusible interfacing; we used Pellon's 809 Décor Bond® firm fusible
4¼ yards of 1½" poly webbing for the handles and carry strap; we used khaki
TWO 1½" wide D-rings; we used black plastic
TWO 1½" wide swivel hooks; we used black plastic
ONE 1½" slide; we used black plastic
ONE 22" metal separating zipper; we used brass
ONE 9" metal zipper; we used brass
½ yard of thin leather for the two zipper pulls
All-purpose sewing thread in colors to match fabric
Scissors or rotary cutter and mat
See-through ruler
4
Straight pins
Seam gauge
Seam ripper
Iron and ironing board
Getting Started
1. Download and print FOUR copies of the Duffle Bag Side Pattern.
2. Download and print TWO copies of the Duffle Bag Side Pocket Pattern.
IMPORTANT: Each pattern consists of ONE 8½" x 11" sheet. You must print the PDF files at 100%. DO NOT SCALE
to fit the page.
3. Cut out the pieces along the solid lines.
4. Butt together (do not overlap) and tape the four Duffle Bag Side Pattern pieces to form a circle as shown on the diagram
printed on the pattern.
5. Butt together (do not overlap) and tape the two Duffle Bag Side Pocket Pattern pieces to form a half circle as shown on
the diagram printed on the pattern.
6. From the top exterior fabric ( Nutmeg Canvas in our sample) , cut the following:
TWO 23" x 12" rectangles
ONE 10" x 15" rectangle
TWO 1¼" x 2" strips for the zipper tabs
Using the assembled Duffle Bag Side pattern, cut TWO side panel circles
Using the assembled Duffle Bag Side Pocket pattern, cut TWO side panel pockets
7. From the bottom exterior fabric ( Boca Cocoa Faux Leather in our sample) , cut ONE 14" x 23" rectangle.
8. From the lining fabric ( Brown Rip Stop Nylon in our sample) , cut the following:
ONE 23" x 36" rectangle
Using the assembled Duffle Bag Side pattern, cut TWO side panel circles
Using the assembled Duffle Bag Side Pocket pattern, cut TWO side panel pockets
9. From the interfacing, cut the following:
TWO 23" x 12" rectangles
Using the assembled Duffle Bag Side pattern, cut TWO side panel circles
Using the assembled Duffle Bag Side Pocket pattern, cut TWO side panel pockets
10. From the webbing cut the following:
TWO 36" lengths
ONE 60" length
TWO 7" lengths
At Your Sewing Machine & Ironing Board
NOTE: As mentioned above, we used the built-in AcuFeed Flex™ system on our Janome MC8900 QCP with the optional
narrow foot VD throughout the entire project. If you don't have a built-in feeding system, attach a Walking foot or similar. It
helps keep all the layers involved in this project feeding more smoothly.
Apply the interfacing
1. Following manufacturer's instructions, fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the two 23" x 12" exterior panels, the two
exterior side circles, and the two exterior side pockets.
5
Side pockets
1. Find the two exterior pocket pieces (with interfacing) and the two pocket lining pieces.
2. Place one lining piece and one exterior piece right sides together, aligning all the raw edges. Pin in place along the top
edge only.
3. Using a ½" seam allowance, stitch along the top edge only.
6
4. Press flat.
5. Fold the lining to the wrong side of the pocket. Press again.
6. Edgestitch on the right side along the top edge only.
7. Run a second line of stitching ¼" from the first.
7
8. Repeat to create the second pocket.
9. Find the two exterior side circles (with interfacing).
10. Place a finished pocket on each side circle, matching the curved raw edges. Pin in place.
11. Machine baste each pocket in place on its circle within the ½" seam allowance, an approximate ⅜" seam allowance is
good.
12. Set the side panels aside.
Front zippered pocket
1. Find ONE of the two 23" x 12" exterior panels (with interfacing), the 10" x 15" exterior pocket panel, and the 9" zipper.
2. Place the 23" x 12" panel wrong side up and flat on your work surface. Orient it properly: 23" wide x 12" high.
3. Find the exact center of the panel (11½" from either side). Mark this point with a pin.
4. Using your fabric pencil and see-through ruler, measure 4½" to the left of the center point and mark, then measure 4½" to
the right of the center point and mark. Measure 3½" down from the upper edge and make an intersecting mark. Draw a
connecting 9" horizontal line.
8
5. Draw a second line ½" down from the first line and parallel. Join the lines at each end to create a box.
6. Place the 10" x 15" panel wrong side up and flat on your work surface. Orient it properly: 10" wide x 15" high.
7. Draw a matching box to what you just drew on the top 10" edge, positioning it ½" from the top raw edge and centered
side to side.
9
8. Place the exterior panel and the pocket panel right sides together aligning the two drawn boxes. The easiest way to line
up the boxes is to place a pin at each upper corner on the wrong side of the exterior panel.
9. Then, match up the pin points with the pocket on the other side.
10. With the wrong side of the exterior panel facing up, stitch around the marked box through both layers.
10
11. Cut through the center of the box, then clip into each corner.
12. Pull the pocket to the inside through the opening, smoothing the corners and edges of the box as best you can. Press.
13. Flip over and place the opening over the 9" zipper, centering the zipper's teeth. Pin in place.
14. Edgestitch in place around all four sides.
11
15. Run a second line of stitching ¼" from the first along the BOTTOM of the box opening only.
NOTE: Don't worry too much about keeping your corner pivots and end stitching super-duper perfect; the ends of the
opening will be hidden by the webbing when complete.
16. From the wrong side, fold just the pocket layer in half, bringing the lower edge of the pocket up so it aligns with the upper
edge. Pin along the top.
17. Flip to the right side. Run a second row of topstitching ¼" from the TOP edgestitching along the TOP of the box opening
(matching what you did previously along the bottom edge). You are stitching through all the layers, catching and securing
12
that upper edge of the pocket you just folded up and pinned. Press well.
Side handles
1. Find the two 36" lengths of webbing.
2. Fold each length in half to find the exact center. Mark with a pin.
3. Measure 3½" to the left of the center point and mark with a pin.
4. Measure 3½" to the right of the center point and mark with a pin.
5. Remove the center pin.
6. Fold the webbing in half, matching the long edges.
7. Edgestitch between the left and right pin points to create the handle.
8. Find both exterior side panels, the one with the pocket and the plain panel.
13
9. On the panel with the pocket, lay one handle length in place. The outer edge of the webbing should be positioned 5½" in
from each side. The inner edge of the webbing should just cover either end of the zipper "box." The ends of the webbing
should be flush with the lower raw edge of the panel. Be careful to insure the handle loop is not twisted.
10. Measure 2½" down from the top raw edge along each side of the webbing and mark with a pin, placing it horizontally
across the webbing. This is where you will stop sewing and turn to go across and back down the webbing.
11. Edgestitch each side of the handle in place, staying as close to the edge as you can. We also lengthened our stitch. Start
at the bottom, stitch up one side, stop at the 2½" mark, pivot, stitch across, pivot, and stitch down the opposite edge to
complete. T