While the jungle habitat surrounding Kitulgala is home to a number of elephant corridors and river crossings, it’s also possible to explore the terrain by other means. Rough, unmaintained trails crisscross the forests, and an ideal way to get off the beaten track is by mountain bike. While guided day tours are available, it’s more of a challenge to head out on the bracing 85km route to Nuwara Eliya, capital of the Central Highlands and famous for its Scottish-style golf courses, lake fishing and British colonial lodgings. In particular, the St Andrew’s Hotel, a Tudor-style country retreat with its own wetland, is well worth a visit, if only to catch your breath over some freshly brewed tea.