In recent years, backpackers have tended to move over to Ko Samui’s fun-loving little sibling, KO PHA NGAN, 20km to the north, which still has a comparatively simple atmosphere, mostly because the poor road system is an impediment to the developers. With a dense jungle covering its inland mountains and rugged granite outcrops along the coast, Pha Ngan lacks the huge, gently sweeping beaches for which Samui is famous, but it does have plenty of coral to explore and some beautiful, sheltered bays. If you’re seeking total isolation, trek out to Hat Khuat (Bottle Beach) on the north coast or the half-dozen pristine beaches on the east coast; Thong Nai Pan, at the top of the east coast, is not quite as remote, and offers a decent range of amenities and accommodation; while on the long neck of land at the southeast corner, Hat Rin, a pilgrimage site for ravers, is a thoroughly commercialized backpackers’ resort in a gorgeous setting.