DISPLACED FORMALITY
According to Zambernardi, who spoke backstage, Mrs Prada has become obsessed with suits. With a coy smile, he said, “She likes obsessions.” That of course doesn’t mean doing suits verbatim. In sheer Memphis-design patterned organzas, various check-ridden tweeds and stripy patent, the skirt suit was taken out of its formal context, especially when paired with deliberately naff 70s knitted tank tops. As the skittish soundtrack darted from Lydia Lunch’s “Lady Scarface” to “Cry me a River” to a rendition of “Gloomy Sunday” (also known as the “Hungarian Suicide Song”), so too did Miuccia skit skat from 50s well-to-do ladies to 60s go-go dancers and mods, with a touch of the flapper thrown in for good measure. Miuccia can probably subvert classicism in her sleep. The final deformalised flourish? The netted veils of a Sunday best hat removed and placed over the décolletage like a form of armour or a sign of rebellion.
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