Abstract
This research used historically informed analysis as a framework to examine studio design practice.
Discovery of a historical patent for a coat made from a single pattern piece led to an examination of
United States coat and jacket patents to identify past patternmaking explorations that could inform
current design practice, with a focus on those with one pattern piece. These patterns allowed large
expanses of cloth for surface design, especially for creation of engineered digital prints on a single
canvas, and opened up avenues for creative experimentation. The research objectives were to
analyze the patterns for shape and accuracy of fit, to evaluate them as a beginning point to inform
future patternmaking and design approaches, to engineer digital prints for prototypes, and to create
aesthetically appealing designs that could be produced with minimal fabric waste. Digital copies of
the patterns were created, tested and compared, with a focus on evaluation of critical fit points and
the potential for further creative development. Prototype designs were generated from the patent
patterns, with some faithful to the original patent and others moving away from the patentee’s
intentions, although keeping the pattern shape. Digital prints were then created and engineered for
the patterns. This investigation also reoriented traditional apparel design practice by placing pattern
manipulation at the beginning of the design process, and made design development contingent upon
research objectives. At the same time it confirmed that research through design is not linear, and
that studio practice also informed the objectives.