How a Fish Is Eaten Matters a Lot
The fish should be the last dish left with some left over, as this has auspicious homophonics for there being surpluses every year. This is practiced north of the Yangtze River, but in other areas the head and tail of the fish shouldn't be eaten until the beginning of the year, which expresses the hope that the year will start and finish with surplus.
There are some rules related to the position of the fish.
• The head should be placed toward distinguished guests or elders, representing respect.
• Diners can enjoy the fish only after the one who faces the fish head eats first.
• The fish shouldn't be moved. The two people who face the head and tail of fish should drink together, as this is considered to have a lucky meaning.
These customs are observed in a lively and light-hearted spirit, full of laughing and banter.