Not many varieties of season are generally said to reach peak flavor in autumn. White fish are almost nonexistent. Kawahagi (thread-sail filefish), best for eating from late autumn into winter, have recently started to come into season a little earlier, acquiring a sizeable liver around October. The liver of kawahagi is considered the tastiest of all sea creatures, and plays the main role in flavor terms, above that of the fish’s flesh. Bonito with a generous layer of fat stars migrating south from the seas off Hokkaido, growing in fattiness and flavor on the journey. The bright red flesh discolors and loses freshness very quickly, along with its flavor, but the very transience of the freshness and the fragrant flavor of the rich fat make it a perennial favorite. Young squid arriving in late August have grown to their tastiest size by October, their subtle, delicate texture savored with a slight thrill of anticipation. Chub mackerel acquire fatty succulence heading into their late autumn prime. Lustrously oily, tasty ikura reach their peak form October to November. Geoduck, said to have two season annually, grow luscious roe again around October, their siphons also sweet and succulent, with a splendid texture. Ama-ebi (pink shrimp) fishing opens off the east coast of Hokkaido. Pacific saury (sanma) migrating south from Hokkaido acquire a rich layer of fat in the same manner as bonito, and in recent years have become another new option on the Edo-mae sushi menu.