The view to Santa Barbara and the coastal mountains is spectacular. Sliding out of the vehicle, we hike to the edge of a cliff, where a thick shell midden reveals the long-term presence of humans. The site, one of the oldest known on the island, dates to 9,800 years ago. “The question is why,” says Gill, raising her voice to be heard over the howl. “Why come over here? We were totally surprised when we started surveying on this side of the island and found settlements.”
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