A general air of restraint hung over the collections this season (to a lesser extent in London with some men-dresses getting tongues wagging) and realised in a range of different ways. Seen in the context of the current European financial crisis they provide as a socio-political barometer of how the countries hosting fashion weeks have related to the handling of crises throughout the centuries: some go minimal, some go military and some experiment.
Fashion, being just a guide to the general mood and the social context, chose to express a positive outlook in terms of very commercial minimalism, and some unconventional treatment of classic styles.
Tailoring remains strong in menswear, with the return of the double-breasted blazer cemented in well structured tailoring as well as some less formal and softer silhouettes brought forward by the three button blazers or boxy coats. Emphasis on fabrics and research provide a luxurious feel to the collections, and distance them from the sometimes 90s reminiscent silhouettes.
In keeping with the minimalist overarching trend of the season, grey is the main colour, with some elegant accents like burgundy, blue and teal, and some more fashion forwards oranges and electric blues.
Overall the season’s collections traced well-trodden paths, with some designers choosing to anchor themselves to the familiar, like military inspiration and the return of the pea coat, while others, looked towards the heavens for a devotional muse.