There was something mischievous, something badly behaved about this collection. Lindsey Wixson made an appearance on the catwalk—a very un-Pugh model, usually—and she brought to mind the blow-up doll from Roxy Music's "In Every Dream Home a Heartache." This collection might not have had the immediacy and outright power of Pugh's last, but that's probably inevitable when the designer's rebelling against himself—the finale song was Queen's "I Want to Break Free." Sometimes it's necessary to do that; a transition in order to gather a new sense of self. Paris could just be the place where designers, in general, rebel this season—and it needs to happen for fashion to move forward. Pugh's collection might well herald a new mood.