As per discussion over-phone, please note that you can calculate from 15% of the item surface on the garment or 30% of total weight of garment. Same as this case this fabric item is used 15% of the item surface on the garment – then it should be called out in CNC.
Hope this is clear for you on this stage. Please also share this information to your merchandisers to understand and detect this kind of issue since development stage.