Two recent trips to two classic European winemaking regions have got me thinking about medium-sweet whites, and how under-appreciated they are here.
First I lingered in Germany's cool-climate Mosel, sampling the most delicate, filigree-like rieslings, marvelling in their complexity and longevity (and low alcohol, which allows you to sip them rather freely). Few tasted very dry.
And now I'm just back from Alsace, far-eastern France, and tastings of their classic noble grapes: gewürztraminer, muscat, pinot gris and (more) riesling, the majority of which are rendered gently honeyed, their slight sweetness balancing what would otherwise be mouth-puckering acidity.
These 'sweet-sour' wines are just made to go with food. In Colmar, Alsace's foodie capital, we drank medium-sweet, peachy pinot gris with rich, smooth pâtés; off-dry, kiwi-scented muscat with tender white asparagus; and appley, golden-syrup-laced rieslings with pâté chaud (a warm pork pie).